210 replies to this topic

[MyaCullen]

I need to dig up all the parts from the move.

 

preaching to the choir 

[3rd party JKor]

preaching to the choir 

 

 

I know all the brewing stuff is in the barn already...but you should see how much stuff is in the barn.  

[MyaCullen]

I know all the brewing stuff is in the barn already...but you should see how much stuff is in the barn.  

 

[3rd party JKor]

The previous owners also left a fridge out there. Yay, another beer fridge! That makes 3 fridges and a chest freezer.

[positiveContact]

did JKor ever get this brewery set up?

 

also, has anything reasonable come up for induction setups for people who make 10 gallon batches?  my initial searching says not so much.

[HVB]

did JKor ever get this brewery set up?

also, has anything reasonable come up for induction setups for people who make 10 gallon batches? my initial searching says not so much.

Just saw the PH discussion but didn't feel like dealing with that. Induction is not going to work at that size. You will need some kind of submerged element. Also, many run over 5500 without scorching. Elements these days are designed for this not just hot water elements. The wattage density is much less so no scorching.

[positiveContact]

Just saw the PH discussion but didn't feel like dealing with that. Induction is not going to work at that size. You will need some kind of submerged element. Also, many run over 5500 without scorching. Elements these days are designed for this not just hot water elements. The wattage density is much less so no scorching.

 

I don't blame  you

 

a submerged element doesn't really work in my current setup.  not saying I couldn't make some changes to get there but I'd rather not right now.  make me wish I had NG piped out to my garage!  I'm guessing that's all kinds of against code though.

Edited by Mando, 22 March 2020 - 05:54 AM.

[positiveContact]

I guess I could get a pump and heat inline - don't some people do that?

[HVB]

I guess I could get a pump and heat inline - don't some people do that?

I use a RIMS but that is to maintain temp not get it to temperature. No easy way to boil that way imo.

[HVB]

If you do not want to modify kettles something like this could be used.  You may need 2 though since they are 120V.  I think you could maintain a boil on a 10g batch with them. May not be a rolling out of the kettle boil, but we do not want that anyway, but a soft boil.

 

https://www.brewhard...p/hotrodrtu.htm

[positiveContact]

my IC kind of precludes me from most options.  that's a good idea for a lot of setups though.

[HVB]

my IC kind of precludes me from most options.  that's a good idea for a lot of setups though.

 Why?  As long is it would still fit in the kettle you can have the IC rest on the element.  I did that for year before I went to a CFC.

[positiveContact]

 Why?  As long is it would still fit in the kettle you can have the IC rest on the element.  I did that for year before I went to a CFC.

 

oh - I figured I couldn't have anything hitting the element.

[HVB]

oh - I figured I couldn't have anything hitting the element.

I had it resting on it and I had made feet to keep it up a bit.  I noticed zero issues.

[positiveContact]

one thing that would be pretty easy would be using these to heat my mash water in the mash tun (SS) and then even if I still used propane for the boil I would at least be reducing my propane usage.

 

how close would the outlet have to be to the element?  I would assume extension cords are no bueno.  I'm also not sure if I have 20A or 15A outlets and breakers.  Is there an easy way to check?

 

you probably remember but my house is pretty new (probably built around 2005 or 2006).

[LeftyMPfrmDE]

 I'm also not sure if I have 20A or 15A outlets and breakers.  Is there an easy way to check?

 

you probably remember but my house is pretty new (probably built around 2005 or 2006).

pull off a outlet cover and look on the front side of the outlet. should be a amperage rating written down somewhere. 

 

or, if your feeling brave, unscrew the outlet from the box and look at the size of the wire. 

 

if its 14 gauge, its 15 amp. 

if it's 12 gauge, its 20 amp. 

[positiveContact]

Is there gauge of wire printed on the insulation? Never noticed. I recently replaced a light switch with a 15A switch because I figure that's more than enough for one light. Not sure if the eyes would have fit in the holes if they were a larger gauge.

[positiveContact]

Ultimately I'd probably run a new outlet for this because there isn't one in a convenient location to my brewing area.

Edited by Mando, 24 March 2020 - 04:10 AM.

[HVB]

Is there gauge of wire printed on the insulation? Never noticed. I recently replaced a light switch with a 15A switch because I figure that's more than enough for one light. Not sure if the eyes would have fit in the holes if they were a larger gauge.

Look for the color

 

[positiveContact]

looks like what is going on is that they ran 15A for lights and 20A for outlets and stuff.  also three 30A wires which I assume are dryer, oven, maybe microwave??  not sure what the third one is for.  I do have a jetted tub upstairs although I can't imagine that needs 30A.  it doesn't have a heater or anything.

 

the main breaker on my panel has a 200 on it so I assume that means it's a 200A panel?

 

I still have room on the panel for something like 2-3 dryer breakers (2 spots) and then probably a couple of regular breakers (1 spot).  sorry I don't know the terminology here.

Edited by Mando, 24 March 2020 - 05:12 AM.